How Immigrants Preserve Culture Through Cooking

Romelia Cuevas chops chiles to be used in salsa.

According to the United States Census Bureau, the United States’ foreign born population has continued to increase since 1970. Today, roughly one in four children have at least one parent that was born in another country.

The United States has a diverse population and one custom that is frequently passed down through generations are recipes. 

Ellie Osher, a 19-year-old college student, was born in California to Russian-American parents. Her parents moved to the United States from Saint Petersburg, Russia, 31 years ago. Osher’s mother taught her how to make Pirogi, a pastry dough dish popular in Russia that is filled with a mix of ground beef, onions, and hard boiled egg. It can also be made with fried cabbage or other meat fillings. 

“Pirogi is my favorite. I like the taste, and I like shaping them,” says Osher. 

The Osher family usually cooks them for special occasions, such as Mother’s Day.

“Every time we make them my mom tells me stories about Russia and how she would make them with her grandmother,” she says. 

Pirogi is assembled then placed on a tin-foil covered tray to be baked in the oven

Zoë Lo, a college freshman at UCSB recounts cuisine she ate growing up. Her parents, both from Hong Kong, moved to Oregon for school roughly 35 years ago and met at Portland State University. Lo returns to Hong Kong every couple of years to visit family and friends, and also enjoys some traditional dishes that she grew up eating in the United States. 

“The food helps me feel connected to the people,” she says. 

Her family friend is a talented baker and makes egg custard cups, one of Lo’s favorite.

Although she does enjoy traditional Hong Kong foods, recipes are mixed in with British, Chinese, and Korean customs because Hong Kong is a small region and has influence from other countries. 

“The best way to describe food from Hong Kong is it’s all just a big hodge podge melting pot mix.” says Lo. 

For example, she recalls eating beans on toast for breakfast whenever she is in Hong Kong, due to the British influence there. 

She also shares that Southeast Asian cuisine includes a lot of soup. 

“I grew up drinking a lot of broth. Like watercress soup, lotus root soup. That is one traditional food that I like,” she says. “Watercress soup is one thing that my grandmother was really good at making, and although she is no longer with us I’m glad she taught my mom how to make it.”

Today, 25% of immigrants living in the United States are from Mexico, according to the Migration Policy Organization. This year marks 30 years of United States citizenship for Romelia Cuevas, who was born in Durango, Mexico. She currently lives in the California Bay Area, where she raised her daughter and continues to prepare traditional cuisine today. 

“My cooking knowledge has served me well here in the United States, being a nanny,” says Cuevas.

She shares her story in a three minute interview.

Romelia Cuevas shares her story and food that she prepares daily.

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